RANDIMA ATTYGALLE
Colombo Fort and Pettah, once plush environs sought after by the colonial masters and their agents, home to a bevy of historical monuments and churches, are now teeming with crowds, mismatched structures and dark alleys of notoriety. Despite the pungency of wholesale vegetables and fruits permeating the air and nostrils quivering at the clogged drains, Fort (Kotuwa) and Pettah or Pita kotuwa claim a character of their own which the plusher quarters of Colombo could never match.
The frenzy of Colombo Fort can ignite the eccentric living in a Bohemian scribe, particularly those who were nurtured in the crevices of the fanatical Bloemendhal- once the valley of blooms… Dilanthi and I, products of Bloemendhal’s paththara mahagedara or Upali Newspapers, living up to this profile, hit the thoroughfares of Fort and Pettah on a bright and breezy Saturday morning.
Reconciliation in reality
It was once again the St. Anthony’s Shrine in Kochchikade which we chose as our auspicious start. Watching those immersed in prayer, their eyes cast upon the idol of St. Anthony seeking blessings, my throat would tighten, reliving the massacre in these hallowed grounds on Easter Sunday four years ago. Basked in the serenity of the church which would answer the prayers of every man and woman regardless of race and religion, it is still hard to comprehend how such carnage was ever possible within those walls…
We would cut across to Manjula’s jasmine kiosk for a garland which would remain fresh for two more days. Our ‘must-stop’ Fancy Point on St. Anthony’s church was another treat. Our faithful tuk-tuk buddy Shankar from Modera would scoot us off near the Fancy Point all at our service. When affable and god-fearing Shankar gave Dilu and I our share of ulundu wadei fresh from the pooja at kotahena kovila we were at a loss for words thinking to ourselves, ‘isn’t this true reconciliation’? Shankar would converse in fluent Sinhala, putting us to shame with our zero knowledge of Tamil. He would wait upon us protectively, ever vigilant of the surroundings, cautioning us against possible ‘pick-pockets’.
Naatamis, chinaware and pera
Manuevering the narrow paths of Fort with naatamis going berserk along them, is a skill by itself. Our friend Shankar has perfected the art. Shankar would take us along the China Street, Main Street, Prince Street, First Cross Street, Keyzer St, Bankshall St, Malwatta Road and more.
The almost 200-year-old S. M Assena Marikar specialising in glass ware and ceramics on China Street was our next haunt. Warmly welcomed by Abdulla Makki Hashim, the sixth-generation owner of the business, we would be tempted to buy more than what we could carry in our rucksacks.
From China Street, we would hit Prince Street in search of the Dutch Museum now closed for renovation. It is hard to imagine that this Dutch mansion which was once a Governor’s residence and home to several more public facilities including a post office and a school, standing tall along a leafy lane. The grand Dutch structure looks out of place now on Prince Street which was once a cultured and a stylish hub of activity as many historians document.
Old Townhall
As Shankar’s tuk-tuk would slow down in traffic along the by lanes of the Colombo Fort, all intersected, we would quickly grab a bag of mouth-watering guava or pera from a wayside vendor. Sprinkled with salt, chilli powder and pepper, the concoction is a signature Sri Lankan delight. Savouring our pera, Dilu and I would arrive at the Old Townhall on Main Street in Pettah. Despite a placard claiming it to be an archeologically protected monument, sadly it is confined only to a nameboard. The old exhibits including a mobile library, a cloak of a mayor, train engines and a steam roller which served as perfect backdrops for our photo-shoot, are neglected. The nearby Edinburgh Market which was once a centre of art and theatre now reduced to a public market is another masterpiece reflecting colonial splendour. The Colombo Fort’s attractions which could generate a sizeable income if positioned and promoted are left to perish to the dismay of the heritage lover. Ideal tourist attractions to be marketed through souvenirs, postcards and other memorabilia, these sites are fast becoming complete history.
Malwatta Rd designer labels
Evoking childhood memories in both Dilu and I where we would plod along our mothers for homeware and toys, we would stop by at Titus Stores. The saivara joint next to the old kovil opposite Main Street was our choice to recharge ourselves with an excellent cup of ginger-tea. Next it was Malwatta Road, Colombo Fort’s famous flee market. Another street steeped in history with cobblestone paths once meant for horse carriages, Malwatta Road is one of the most colourful lanes of Colombo. With fake international labels competing with each other, chic winter boots of all colours putting Santa’s pair to shame and luggage flaunting themselves, Malwatta Road merchandise has long been hoodwinking many! Tucked amidst all these is an inconsequential CD shop selling audios and videos. The owner Prabath offers a tempting range of Sinhala classics. I’d pick a CD with 100 hits of H.R. Jothipala and M.S Fernando. I was simply thrilled to have finally been able to get a copy of Kedapathaka Chaaya (pirated of course!) I so long waited to see.
Indian Thali and Kandos delights
Our stomachs were growling by this time and Vaishnawi Villa on Kotahena Street near St. Lucia’s Cathedral was what we were hungry for. Shankar would safely drop the two of us bidding us good bye until next time thanking for the bag of sweets and savouries we packed for his children.
We simply could not resist the North Indian Thali at Vaishnawi Villa- which we sampled the first time there a few months ago. The mint and lime soda for which I have a knack is simply at its best here. The tall glass served is certainly money’s worth. After a hearty meal, it was certainly time for chocolates; certainly not the Indian but Kandos. Dilu and I would meander along the Sixth Lane and stop at the too familiar gates of our second ‘mahagedera’- Upali Group. The newly revamped Kandos shop was offering us a hair-splitting choice. We would settle down for dark chocolates served by our good old Kandos buddy Jayantha. With Valentine’s Day around the corner, the shop had installed a backdrop of Promises for ‘selfies.’ Jayantha would generously offer to photograph us against it, given our zero selfie skills!
We would linger for a while at the entrance through we which we walked for years, enabling us some of life’s best memories and friendships. Taking home another treasured memory with us, Dilu and I would bid adieu, promising to hit another tantalising quarter of Colombo very soon.